Sounds of India

I listened to some stuff today.  A lot of stuff.  The noises around me are overwhelming.  When arriving in Delhi, I thought I wouldn’t be able to hear anything because the air was so thick from smog (so much so that a used tissue was black with soot).  But I fell asleep to the sound of speeding cars, honking their way past the hotel.  The next day, after some breakfast and orientation, the eleven of us decided to venture out into the city.  I could not get past the honking.   Even after a car ride around the city, I realized how much people use their horns.

In India, roads are covered with every type of movement – from elephants, camels, and racing horses, all the way to auto rickshaws, motorbikes, car and buses of all shapes and sizes (hence all the smog).  However, I am nearly convinced that there are few traffic laws.  Zooming around other vehicles and pedestrians, it seems that lane lines are a thing of nonexistence.  I have seen men standing on the backs of cars on highways and busses going down the wrong side of the road, despite the barrier in between.  It’s confusing enough with traffic going the wrong way, but with the millions of beeps heard from all directions, I have little faith in the drivers around me.  Apparently, auto accidents cause more deaths in India than diseases do.

Then, there are the languages.  There are so many languages wherever you travel to in India, that learning one seems to rarely help.  I have learned some key phrases like “chello, “nehi” and “tikay,” meaning “go away,” “no,” and “It’s ok.”  These all help to ward off the pushy salesmen, eager rickshaw drivers and beggars.  I actually have yet to learn the word for yes.  I’m sure that I will learn more once classes actually start, but for now, I feel lost amid the yelling and shouting always happening around me.

Lone white girl 

Yet, since coming to Jaipur, I have begun to hear noises that I appreciate.  In addition to the ringing of cellphones, roaring of motorbike engines spewing fumes, and in my face yelling because I am white, I have heard beautiful instruments, chanting for prayers and drumming celebrations late into the night.  Just as I was typing this, my eleven year old host sister started playing her harmonica.  From where I am typing, I can see a sitar sitting in the corner of a room begging to be played.  Earlier today, my roommate Bridget and I visited a Ganesh Temple and the Birla Temple, and heard the loud sounding of the bells as everyone entered and left the holy space. Many times now, I have heard the gorgeous calling to prayer coming from the nearby mosques and resonating across the entire city.  And just my luck – wedding season just started.  Because most Indians are fairly religious, they try to only marry in auspicious times, which apparently began a few short days ago.  The first night in Jaipur, we watched fireworks over the city and listened to happy cheers of dancing families celebrating the new union around a circle of drums. 

Though at first, I could only hear all the noises that surprised and discomforted me, I am starting to adjust and become more comfortable in the city and with its many sounds.  I know it will take a very long time to feel truly comfortable, but it helps to at least be able to relax.  After two stressful days in Delhi, I was very worried that I would not be able to stay the entire time, just because of how much I disliked the city.  Luckily, the pink city of Jaipur is better in every way (in my humble opinion). 

Birla Temple at sunset

And apologies for the length of this post.